Intimate Apparel Trends: Spring/Summer 2018

Spring and Summer are just a few short months away, bringing fresh lingerie collections! Get ready for an especially innovative and complex approach to fashion in the near future, reflecting a new generation of lucid and modern women. In the warmer seasons, lingerie is a must as it peeks from beneath outerwear as a statement. There will be more variety in color and patterns to complement the diverse range of styles on the market.

See the hottest thematic intimate apparel trends for SS18:

Marine

Marine life inspires depth in lingerie designs with materials such as chiffon, lace, and mesh used for an ethereal effect. Organic textures will be channeled through scalloped lace and shell motifs. This sea trend includes a palette of floral hues and aquatic shades such as waterlily, coral blush, milky blue, and persimmon.

Tropicana

This botanical theme draws inspiration from the natural world with floral and earthy tones like bluestone, turtle green, dusty olive, florida keys, and antique moss. See this style layered with sheers such as mesh and tulles for an immersive, yet delicate feel. 

Athletic

Athletic intimate apparel will continue to undergo technical improvements and stylistic innovation, driven by the rise of health-conscious consumers and the athleisure trend. These garments are made with functional materials such as spandex and power mesh. See it in vibrant colors such as azure blue, summer & jolly green, blazing yellow, fiery red, and florida keys.

Geometric

Geometric patterns with sharp shapes and edges create powerful visuals that appeal to the new generation that’s keen on combining masculine and feminine elements. Designs are light, soft, and linear, highlighting the feminine form with architectural elements. Symmetrical and asymmetrical cutouts with color combinations and mix-and-match techniques will create graphical effects. This clean-cut style will be expressed in colors like blueberry, pine grove, pirate black, waterlily, and ethereal green.

Eclectic

Eye-catching customization will illustrate the modern embrace of creativity. Expect the unexpected with contrasting materials, colors, and prints, with novel visuals that break the rules. Androgynous references are made with graphic, bold, and fresh aesthetics that deliver a feminist edge.

Classic Romance

Familiar femininity lives on in classically romantic pieces, made with delicate lace, lightweight satin, and understated colors for subtlety. An airy and silkiness is illustrated with colors like pastels, baby blue, rose violet, and anise flower. Sheerness and lace with prints will tell a delicate summer story.

Sensuality

Passion and lust are expressed with deep saturated hues like blueberry, fiery red, violet, and classic black in sensual materials such as satins and high-end lace. Cut-outs, cross straps, and other bold embellishments will expose the skin while carving sexy silhouettes.

Resources:
https://www.behance.net/gallery/42328129/Lingerie-Forecast-Spring-Summer-2018
http://vanjonssondesign.com/trend-blog/2017/9/25/spring-summer-2018-lingerie-trends
http://fashionwebgraphic.com/ss2018-trend-forecasting
http://www.lingerieinsight.com/mode-city-introduces-key-trends-springsummer-2018/
http://www.fashiontrendsetter.com/v2/2016/10/30/maredimoda-swimwear-intimates-preview-trends-summer-2018/
http://www.tactiletrends.com/home/interfiliere-trends-ss18
http://www.vogue.it/en/fashion/trends/2017/04/06/spring-summer-17-trends-lingerie/

Book Review: Paris Undressed – The Secrets of French Lingerie by Kathryn Kemp-Griffin
by Andrew Sia

The book is available at the following site for $29.95

https://houseofanansi.com/products/paris-undressed

The book’s opening sentence says it all: “American women wear underwear. French women wear lingerie.”

It was a hot July night in Toronto in 1990. Kate and her husband, Christian tossed a coin and ended up in Paris, and that is how Kate came to experience living and breathing in the “City of Light.” Kate describes her first encounter with lingerie during a visit to Lingerie Annabelle where Madame Annabelle put her into an ivory satin bra with small pleats trimmed in lace. Kate likens Madame Annabelle’s delicate adjustment of the back hooks and tightening of the straps to the skilled tuning of a violin. I found it a profound observation from a girl being introduced to lingerie for the first time, even to her description of how – in the moment – she felt taller.

I can’t help but laugh when Kate tells us about Gentry de Paris showing the “ten ways to remove your gloves” and, whether it is taking out the garbage or taking off the gloves, it should always be about the tease. I’ve said to myself that I will have to be more careful now, not to deliver the wrong message when taking the garbage out.

Consider the three S-words: seduction, sexuality and sensuality. They convey a similar impression, but are different (check it out for yourself.) Americans associate the marketing of lingerie with words such as “sexy” and “hot” – and “design,” in the lexicon of Victoria’s Secret is all about cleavage. The French have very different descriptors: elegant, feminine, natural, refined, romantic, subtle, and timeless…

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COUNTRY REPORT: CHINA – PEARL RIVER DELTA
by Andrew Sia

When we talk about the Pearl River Delta, Shenzhen, the country’s first special economic zone will come to mind. Also described as the most successful economic enterprise, Shenzhen is located in the Guangdong province. The Pearl River Delta overflows the province and the tributaries flow towards the South China Sea. Shenzhen is the crown jewel of Guangdong.

It began in 1978 when Deng Xiaoping liberated the economy and began the reforms that enabled Shenzhen to operate as a freewheeling hub. It arose on the crest of globalization, enjoying an open trade policy, which made Shenzhen unique. Early reformers pushed ahead with certain policies (often unauthorized,) encouraging direct foreign investment. What resulted is that most of part of this region’s economy is entirely in the hand of the private sector, whereas much of China is still dominated by state-owned enterprises.

Since 1978, the PRD has become the leading economic region and the major manufacturing hub in China, and in the world, with Hong Kong playing the pivotal role of economic gateway to attract foreign and mainland investors.

Introduction
Brief history:

Because the PRD is part of China, we can’t omit China in the big picture. Below is a brief history (or as brief as a 4,000 year history can be,) of China…

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HONG KONG POLYTECHNIC UNIVERSITY INTIMATE APPAREL FASHION SHOW 2017

PolyU
Intimate Fashion Show
2017

Professor John H. Xin
Lee Family Professor in Fashion and Textiles Chair Professor of Textile Chemistry
Head, Institute of Textiles and Clothing
The Hong Kong Polytechnic University

Foreword from ITC Head

Welcome to the PolyU Intimate Fashion Show 2017! This fashion show is one of the highlights of the Hong Kong Fashion Week for Spring / Summer hosted by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council. It showcases the 12 selected creative collections of the final year students from the Bachelor of Arts (Honours) Scheme in Fashion and Textiles with the specialism of Intimate Apparel. The collections fully demonstrate the students’ talent in innovation and their passion for intimate apparel design.

This fourth intimate fashion show is the collaborated effort of the industry and the Institute. I would like to express my deep appreciation towards the Crystal Group, our Chief Sponsor, for their substantial donation and generous support. I would also like to thank sincerely the Hong Kong Intimate Apparel Industries’ Association, our sponsors, design and production mentors, as well as judges for their extensive contribution and participation to realize this memorable event.

As the first institution in Asia Pacific to offer intimate apparel tertiary education, the Institute of Textiles and Clothing is dedicated to cultivate young talents in intimate apparel design and technology with the latest knowledge and develop high-calibre professionals for the industry with global perspective.

I would like to extend my heartfelt congratulations to all graduates and wish them every success in their future career in the intimate apparel industry…

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FASHION QUOTE: “Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.” by Oscar Wilde, Illustration by Tina Wilson

Oscar Wilde is best remembered for his exuberant personality, consummate wit and his infamous imprisonment for homosexuality.

His novel “The Picture of Dorian Gray” and his play “The Importance of being Ernest” are considered among the great literary masterpieces of the late Victorian period, and continue to find an enthusiastic audience even today.

There are so many clever quotes attributed to Oscar Wilde. To single out one over all the others is quite impossible, but I have decided upon two:

“Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.”

Perhaps this was during his time with The Woman’s World, when he would have noticed the frequent changes of fashion.

Oscar has numerous quotes about women, life and love. One that I think well reflects his wit and sense of self:

“I can resist anything except temptation.”

If you want to read more about Oscar Wilde you can visit CMG WorldWide with your questions. They can be reached at www.cmgww.com.

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150 Years of Lingerie History
by Andrew Sia

I am taking you through this journey into the history of lingerie, starting with corsets in the 19th century to the hottest item today, the bralette, through the article as published by the fashion magazine, Elle. I’ve added context (fashion trends, after all, are influenced by the changing culture,) with the addition of historic events from the 1860s, when it was crinoline for the aristocrats – the 1890s, when women were laced for the wasp’s waist – the 1930s, which marked the birth of the brassiere – the 1940s, with the introduction of bra pads – and the 1990s, when Victoria’s Secret began to dominate the lingerie world and Jean Paul Gaultier produced sculptured costumes for Madonna starting with the infamous cone bra for her Blond Ambition World Tour.

In the 1850s

During the middle of the 19th century, the fashion silhouette for women was more towards that of an hourglass. Steel and whalebone were used to achieve the ideal of an 18” waist, which required women to be squeezed from the abdomen and diaphragm (with the inability to breathe that resulted often leading to fainting spells.)

Forget any considerations of comfort, this fashion was pure torture.

In the 1860s

President Abraham Lincoln was assassinated on April 15, 1865.

The hoop skirt was something that was not meant for sitting. Crinoline was used to expand the hoop skirt, and the wearer required the assistance of others to get in and out of the garment. It also required incredible balance on the part of the wearer to achieve the desired elegance of movement…

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China: From Ancient Silk Road to the Modern One Belt Road
by Andrew Sia

Introducing the Silk Road

The Silk Road was an ancient network of trade routes that was used for the communication of trade, culture and religion. On land it connected the Asian continent from the Korean Peninsula and Japan, with the Indian subcontinent, Central Asia and Persia, and Europe. The sea route began in the South China Sea, through the Malacca Strait into the Sea of Java, the Bengal Sea, Indian Ocean, Gulf and the eastern sea coast of the African continent.

It began during the Han dynasty, from 207 BC to 220 AD, with the many expeditions of the famous Chinese imperial envoy, Zhang Qian.

The term, Silk Road was first used by a German, Ferdinand von Richthofen, who participated on several expeditions from 1868 to 1872, and its original name in German was Seidenstraße. Silk Road in its early days was used to link China to places as far reaching as the Roman Empire. The total length was 6,400 km or 4,000 miles.

As time went on, the Silk Road provided the means by which numerous delegations were able to carry out the lucrative business of the silk and horse trades. Keeping out the Hsiung-nu, who were entering from the north and robbing the trade delegations became a priority for the Han army that regularly patrolled the trade route to protect the merchants from nomadic bandits. The Great Wall also functioned as a protection for the trade delegations.

Throughout the Roman Empire, regular communication and trade took place between China, Southeast Asia, India, the Middle East, Africa and Europe. The trading of spices, glassware, perfume, china and silk brought prosperity to the Empire as a whole, with artifacts having been found along the route.

Roman artisans began to replace the cotton yarn they took from Egypt with the silk cloths of the East, and wealthy Roman women took up the fashion immediately. The Roman Senate tried to prohibit the wearing of silk on economic and moral grounds but failed. The importation of Chinese silk proved costly as increasing amounts of gold flowed out of the Empire to satisfy the constant demand for more and more of the sophisticated Asian products, leading to the crumbling of their economy around the 5th century.

During the Byzantine Empire, Christian monks travelled to China to learn the secrets of silk production and stole the silkworm eggs that made it all possible. Soon production began in medieval Europe.

The Silk Road remained the most important pre-modern Eurasian trade route, reaching its golden age during the Tang Dynasty, 618 BC to 907 BC and establishing a strong Chinese maritime with Arabia, Egypt, Ethiopia, Somalia and all the way to the Horn of Africa…

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Prelude to the World Trade Agreements
by Andrew Sia

Trade is a commercial behavior that began with the dawn of civilization and, given human nature, trade and war seem to go hand in hand. It starts with one group wanting what another group has, and is unwilling to share. Best case scenario, it ends with both sides sitting down to work out an agreement that often includes the opening up of trade, compensation and/or reparations, with reallocation of land and resources. This is a cycle that is as true today as generations past.

It has been the interest of our publication to feature reports on the latest trade topics, especially when the Trans-Pacific Agreement (on a scale we have never seen before,) was discussed among the 12 nations.

Starting with the January 2016 issue, we have featured reports on a number of global trade agreements, as follows:

January 2016

• Insight into the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP)

April 2016

• Trade Pact: Everything you need to know about the WTO
o Brought out China’s market economy status (MES,) which has still not been resolved

July 2016

• Narratives of the World Trade Agreement (WTO)
o WTO came from General Agreement on Tariffs & Trade (GATT) o Bretton Wood Institute
o International Trade Organization (ITO)
o Doha Development Round launched in November 2001

October 2016

• Trade Pact: Aspects of the Different Free Trade Agreements (Part 1)
o North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA)
o Dominican Republic Central America Free Trade Agreement (DR-CAFTA) o Free Trade Area of the Americas (FTAA)

January 2017

• Trade Pact: Aspects of the Different Free Trade Agreements (Part 2)
o Association of South East Asian Nations (ASEAN)
o Transatlantic Trade and Investment Partnership (TIPP)
o Comprehensive Economic and Trade Agreement (CETA) between Canada and EU
o Region Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP)

April 2017

• Trade Pacts: New Developments and New Challenges
o Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP)
o Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) o North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA)
o World Economic Forum at Davos

July 2017

• World Trade in Turmoil
o Union of South American Nations (USAN) o Mercosur – Southern Common Market
o Andean Community
o Latest Developments of TPP

In this issue, we are featuring agreements that were introduced prior to the major trade agreements of today, and we’re going to start over 70 years ago, at the end of WWII, when Europe was almost destroyed. What followed in 1948 was the Marshall Plan.

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European Athleisure Market Scene
by Simone Gerschitzka

The excitement buzzing around major sports events is rich with opportunities for fashionistas and companies alike. Merchandising, broadcasting rights, clothing lines, fitness – the athleisure and sport economy is all around us. For now, it seems athleisure is the new black. Apparently, the term “athleisure” was first used in 1976 on an advertisement for trainers. So let us explore this a little further.

The athleisure industry is booming, and experts believe it will continue to thrive for years to come. Given the slow growth affecting many sectors, this broad-spectrum market – ranging from sport entertainment to everyday physical exercise and urban streetwear – deserves attention, from the fashion-conscious consumer and – yes, from investors alike.

The graph above shows the approximate rise of sales worldwide, in which Europe is included, of course.

The “athleisure syndrome” draws on the widespread popularity of all forms of physical exercise. Fitness clubs and equipment and clothing manufacturers are enjoying good times, as are the brands that sell wearable technology to monitor performance. More than one in three sport enthusiasts is reported to use this type of device. Dress codes have also been swept up in the momentum, and not just in the shoe department. People in Europe are wearing Adidas, Nike, Under Armour, Puma, Tchibo, Lucas Hugh, and Fila, sporty looking athleisure clothing, from morning till late, to the office, restaurant, out on the town, window shopping – this trend is everywhere…

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REPORTS OF THE INTERNATIONAL TECHNOLOGY TRADE SHOWS
by Andrew Sia

Introduction

In this issue, we have reports of the trade shows that have recently taken place. These are international trade shows attracting key industry players, and providing a showcase for our unique business in lingerie and textiles.

• Interfiliere in Paris (July) – by Simone Gerschitzka
• CurveNY: Part 1 – The Colombia Lingerie Brands (August) – by Camille Block
• CurveNY: Part 2 – The Selected Bra Collections – by Camille Block
• Magic Sourcing 2017 in Las Vegas (August): The Colombia Textile Mills – by Andrew Sia

At this juncture, I would like to give special credit to the trade show organizer, Eurovet with headquarters in Paris. For many years, Eurovet has actively encouraged the modernization of the industry, identified the needs of the different market segments, and organized the common ground for the global players.

With the exception of CurveNY in August, which was a show for lingerie, all the other shows were dedicated to the supply chain for fabrics and trims. I consider fabrics and trims to be the backbone of our industry, this from someone who came from the supply side. It is very important to participate in the tradeshows; there is so much to learn, and many opportunities to interact when all the major players come together.

Innovation, development, design and supply are the four key elements. The global slowdown due to the economy, the contraction of consumer spending, and the price war between traditional retailers and their online competition – know that, without any of these challenges, the market can be quite monotonous.

I hope you find the reports that follow most interesting…

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