Basic Bikini Brief – Size M

by David Morris

BASIC BIKINI BRIEF – MEDIUM
FRONT PATTERN

• The pattern draft for this bikini brief is for a standard 180 gm sqr. mtr.
• Poly/Lycra knit.
• Draft a rectangle 17.5 cm wide by 33.7 cm long.

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Molded Cup Bikinis by David Morris

A GUIDE TO MOLDED BIKINIS

Currently molded bras represent the largest selling type of bra in the world, so inevitably wired bikinis use the same construction.

Molding is a process which transfers
a piece of fabric or sheet foam into a 3D shape of lasting quality.This process involves an exact combination of heat, pressure and dwell time to suit each individual fabric and mold form.

Although molded cups are thought of as a modern creation they were available in the UK retail market as early as 1947.

They were made with foam cups and were produced by “cold molding.” The foam sheet was heated and formed using cold wood molds…

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INTERVIEW WITH TONI LUBLIN – LECTRA

by Camille Block

Recently THE INTIMATE APPAREL JOURNAL sat down with Toni Lublin of LECTRA. Toni is their Education Partnership Manager and her in-depth answers to our many questions familiarized us with Toni as we learned about her long career. We want to also give our readers a snapshot of the company itself.

About LECTRA

LECTRA is the world leader in integrated technology solutions (software, automated cutting equipment, and associated services) specifically designed for industries using fabrics, leather, technical textiles, and composite materials to manufacture their products. It serves major world markets: fashion and apparel, automotive, and furniture as well as a broad array of other industries.

Lectra’s solutions, specific to each market, enable customers to automate and optimize product design, development, and manufacturing. With more than 1,500 employees, Lectra has developed privileged relationships with prestigious customers in more than 100 countries, contributing to their operational excellence. The company is listed on Euronext.

IAJ – Tell us a little about yourself.

TL – My passion for fashion started as a teenager. In my teens and early twenties,
I worked in retail apparel boutiques and upscale department stores, such as Saks Fifth Avenue. My first job was for a very trendy jeans store called “Up-Against-The- Wall.” Those work experiences impacted my desire to learn more about the fashion industry. I became an assistant manager of Fashion Jewelry at Saks Fifth Avenue by the time I was 21 years old and knew I wanted to pursue a career in fashion.

Fast forward to 2017, I have been working in the apparel manufacturing and services side of the fashion industry for 33 years. The majority of my focus has been in the intimate apparel manufacturing sector, working in Product Development and 42 Intimate Apparel Journal Merchandising for such companies as Warner’s, Bali, Hanes Her Way and Vanity Fair Intimates…

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The 2017 Spring/Summer Pantone Color Palette is here!

According to the Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute, Leatrice Eiseman, the hues in the spring/summer 2017 palette are reminiscent of colors that surround us in nature.

“Reminiscent of the hues that surround us in nature, our Spring 2017 Fashion Color Report evokes a spectrum of emotion and feeling. From the warmth of sunny days with PANTONE 13-0755 Primrose Yellow to the invigorating feeling of breathing fresh mountain air with PANTONE 18-0107 Kale and the desire to escape to pristine waters with PANTONE 14-4620 Island Paradise, designers applied color in playful, yet thoughtful and precise combinations to fully capture the promises, hope and transformation that we yearn for each Spring.”

The top colors for Spring 2017 fashion are:

PANTONE 17-4123 Niagara

Comfortable and dependable, Niagara leads the PANTONE Fashion Color Report as the most prevalent color for spring 2017. Niagara is a classic denim-like blue that speaks to our desire for ease and relaxation.

PANTONE 13-0755 Primrose Yellow

By contrast, Primrose Yellow sparkles with heat and vitality. Inviting us into its instant warmth, this joyful yellow shade takes us to a destination marked by enthusiasm, good cheer and sunny days.

PANTONE 19-4045 Lapis Blue

Conveying even more energy is Lapis Blue. Strong and confident, this intense blue shade is imbued with an inner radiance.

PANTONE 17-1462 Flame

A red-based orange, Flame, is gregarious and fun loving. Flamboyant and vivacious, this wonderfully theatrical shade adds fiery heat to the spring 2017 palette.

PANTONE 14-4620 Island Paradise

Island Paradise is a refreshing aqua that calls to mind a change of scenery. A cool blue green shade that speaks to our dream of the great escape, Island Paradise is emblematic of tropical settings and our desire to unwind.

PANTONE 13-1404 Pale Dogwood

Continuing the tranquil mood, Pale Dogwood is a quiet and peaceful pink shade that engenders an aura of innocence and purity. The unobtrusive Pale Dogwood is a subtle pink whose soft touch infuses a healthy glow.

PANTONE 15-0343 Greenery

Bringing forth a refreshing take, Greenery is a tangy yellow-green that speaks to our need to explore, experiment and reinvent. Illustrative of flourishing foliage, the fertile attributes of Greenery signals one to take a deep breath, oxygenate and reinvigorate.

PANTONE 17-2034 Pink Yarrow

Tropical and festive, Pink Yarrow is a whimsical, unignorable hue that tempts and tantalizes. Bold, attention getting and tempestuous, the lively Pink Yarrow is a captivating and stimulating color that lifts spirits and gets the adrenaline going.

PANTONE 18-0107 Kale

Evocative of the great outdoors and a healthy lifestyle, Kale is another foliage-based green that conjures up our desire to connect to nature, similar to the more vivacious Greenery. And, just as we see in nature, this lush and fertile natural green shade provides the perfect complementary background to the more vibrant tones in the palette.

PANTONE 14-1315 Hazelnut

Rounding out the spring 2017 colors is Hazelnut, a key neutral for spring. This shade brings to mind a natural earthiness. Unpretentious and with an inherent warmth, Hazelnut is a transitional color that effortlessly connects the seasons.

A Mixture of Vitality, Relaxation and the Great Outdoors
From colors that are bright and vivid to those that convey a sense of earthiness, our top 10 colors for spring 2017 are reminiscent of the hues that surround us in nature. In conjunction with New York Fashion Week, the PANTONE Fashion Color Report provides a comprehensive overview of fashion designers’ use of color in their spring 2017 collections. Featuring the top 10 shades seen on the runway, the PANTONE Fashion Color Report is your essential color guide to the season.

“One of the things that we saw this year, was a renewed sense of imagination in which color was appearing in context that was different than the traditional,” said Eiseman. “Reminiscent of the hues that surround us in nature, our Spring 2017 Fashion Color Report evokes a spectrum of emotion and feeling. From the warmth of sunny days with PANTONE 13-0755 Primrose Yellow to the invigorating feeling of breathing fresh mountain air with PANTONE 18-0107 Kale and the desire to escape to pristine waters with PANTONE 14-4620 Island Paradise, designers applied color in playful, yet thoughtful and precise combinations to fully capture the promises, hope and transformation that we yearn for each Spring.”

THE NEW E-TAIL GIANT: AMAZON

by Terri Fisher

Am•a•zon, (noun). A member of a legendary race of female warriors believed by the ancient Greeks to exist in Scythia (near the Black Sea in Modern Russia) or elsewhere on the edge of the known world. The Amazons had a matriarchal society in which women fought and governed while men performed the household tasks.

Utopia? Maybe, but the only thing Amazon, the new e-tail giant, and the legendary female warriors have in common is GIANT and WARRIORS.

Sales for the full year 2016 rose a whopping 27% to $136 billion from $107 billion in 2015. That’s Billion with a “B.” They also managed to operate in the black for the year, earning $2.37 billion for the year. The company is winning for many, many reasons, one of them being my favorite: Prime Membership. It keeps giving its millions of Prime members MORE. CEO Jeff Bezos told investors that Amazon’s Prime customer obsession “kept them busy” in 2016. “Prime members can now choose from over 50 million items with free two-day shipping – up 73% since 2015,” he said. Bezos noted that “tens of millions” of new paid members joined the $99-a-year program in 2016.

Besides the impressive sales figures, the stock price was up more than 300% in the past five years. No, I did not jump on that one in time…

Three major initiatives, among many, drive Amazon today: Prime membership, an incursion into brick-and-mortar stores (something the company has long resisted), and an obsessive rethinking of logistics including a new fulfillment center outside Seattle that features high-tech robots working alongside human workers in a “factory of the future.” Amazon’s founding idea was that digital commerce would radically reshape our marketplace. And boy did it!

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REPORT ON LINGERIE FRANÇAISE EXHIBITION WORLD TOUR

by Andrew Sia

Introduction – The exhibition is now in its 5th year and this time it was held in Miami from November 26 to December 6, 2016. I am attaching content from the Exhibition to be used for this report knowing that the content is very rich and original, plus there is no one better way to tell the story other than to show the full exhibition that featured 100 pieces of French lingerie but also the artists who took part in the show. I’ve also enclosed some pictures that I took.

My contact at the show, Catherine Ormen, was introduced to our readers through her book “French Lingerie 19th to 21st Century,” which we reviewed in our May 2014 issue. Catherine showed me around to explain all the gadgets that they’ve added. I’m referring to the modern chronological and thematic displays that allowed us to follow the history effortlessly. I found this virtual tour to be very interesting. The continued use of the QR code makes our lives easier.

The past five years, the LINGERIE FRANFÇAISE EXHIBITION WORLD TOUR has toured the following world cities:

Catherine Ormen, Curator of the show

• 2012 – Paris; London; Shanghai; Dubai
• 2013 – Berlin; New York; Toronto; Moscow
• 2014 – Barcelona; Tokyo
• 2015 – Milano
• 2016 – Miami

Last but not the least I would like to mention that the Sagamore Hotel is a perfect place for an exhibition like this. To my knowledge it hosts art exhibitions on a regular basis and also serves as an art gallery in its own right.

I’ve attached some pictures I captured during my visit…

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COUNTRY REPORT: Thailand

by Andrew Sia

For this issue, we feature the last Southeast Asian country, Thailand. In terms of GDP it’s ranked number two among the ten ASEAN countries. I visited Thailand in the 80s and thought about setting up manufacturing there which was booming in those days and was considered a better developed country among its peers. It was a relatively peaceful country, which was the reason why it attracted a lot of manufacturing. Among all the Southeast Asian countries, I still think it has the best infrastructure and it can be adequate for the materials it will need to produce complicated garments like brassieres. In other words, it has a complete supply chain, not only for intimate apparel but for apparel in general. But what led to the recent political turbulence in the country is unfortunate.

Brief history

  • Evidence of human habitation was found dating back 40,000 years with stone artifacts from the Tham Lod Rockshelter period.
  • As with other regions in Southeast Asia, Thailand is heavily influenced by
    the culture and regions of India, starting from the Kingdom of Funan to the first century of the Khmer Empire.
  • In its early days, Thailand was under the rule of the Khmer Empire, which had strong Hindu roots.
  • Strong Indian influence through the Indianized kingdoms of Dvaravati, Srivijaya and Cambodia. Buddhism emerged at the time of the Indian Emperor Ashoka of the Maruya Empire and this influence continued.
  • The Khmer Empire collapsed in the 13th century and the Thai people, Mons, Khmers, Chams and the ethnic Malays formed states scattered around the landscape of the Siamese…

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INVESTIGATION OF U.S. DEMOGRAPHICS IN TODAY’S BUSINESS WORLD

by Andrew Sia

Opening

Do you know the composition of the generations of the U.S. population? First, let’s define these generations.

• Greatest generation (1901 to 1924)
• Silent generation (1925 to 1945)
• Baby Boomers (1946 to 1964)
• Generation X (1965 to 1976)
• Millennials (1977 to 1995)
o Younger Millennials (age 18 to 27)
o Older Millennials (age 28 to 36)
• Generation Z (1996 to present)

The following is the U.S. population by generation:

Below is the number of years each generation lasted:
• Baby Boomers – 19 years
• Generation X – 12 years
• Millennials – 19 years
• Generation Z – 22 years and still going

Here is the present age of each generation:
• Boomers – early 50s to 70s
• X Generations – 40s to just reaching 50
• Millennials – 21 to 39
• Z Generations – just reaching their 20s

The purpose here is to find out consumer trends based on these different demographics with the hope of identifying their affordability and preferences so we can start to serve them more meaningful products that fit their lifestyle.

First let’s delve into each generation, from 1946 to the present – a total of 70 years…

Some Facts and Figures

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Trade Pact: Aspects of the Different Free Trade Agreements (Part 2)

by Andrew Sia

Introduction – To open Part 2 of our series I have to say: the world is going through turmoil to an extent I’ve never seen before.

It’s no secret that global trade has lost its steam; we’ll discuss this later.

Throughout history we’ve seen wars between nations and once the conflict has ended, the settlement between the two parties always came with trade treaties to reopen the flow of business. Let’s start by discussing some incidents of late.

The case of Japan and Russia – We read the latest that Japan is hoping to end the long-running dispute over a group of islands that Russia calls the Kuril and Japan the Northern Territories. The starting point for any settlement would most likely be a 1956 joint declaration by Japan and at that time, the Soviet Union, agreeing that the four smallest disputed islands, Habomai Islands, Etorofu Island, Kunashiri Island and Shikotan Island should go back to the Japanese. But there is little sign Putin wants to return any territories at all.

In an interview with the Financial Times, Hiroshige Seko, Japan’s minister for economy, trade and industry, said Tokyo had put forward many projects and Moscow almost 70.

All this preparation has helped to develop a better environment in which to conduct what the Japanese call the Northern Territories negotiations. The Japan-Russia economic relationship has so far been centered on energy investments in fossil fuels and renewable energy. Areas where the Russian people have needs are hospitals and urban development, promotion of industry in the Far East, and cooperation in advanced technology…

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The New Frontier of Intimate Apparel: The Athleisure Brands – Part 1

by Andrew Sia

Athleisure is the only business to see growth in the garment industry. It has the most brands, with new brands coming out everyday due to the ease of online marketing, but this also makes the business more challenging.

It’s anticipated that the market for athleisure will slow down become difficult to grow simply because there are so many players competing in the same market.

Lululemon Athleticawww.lululemon.com
Founded in Vancouver in 1998 by Chip Wilson, the company began as a yoga apparel company. A yoga image appears as the logo. The company has its share of controversy.

Chip stepped down in February 2015 after making comments that angered customers. Product quality has also suffered, causing the company to lose its share of the market, not to mention that it faces very steep competition.

The current CEO is Laurent Potdevin. As of 2015, It had 354 locations with revenue of $1.79 billion and a net income of $239.03 million.

The company is best known as a designer and retailer of athletic apparel. It offers a wide range that includes pants, shorts, tops and jackets designed purposely for yoga, running, dancing and general fitness. They even have a small selection of swimwear designed for sports. The brand has a good selection of sports bras as well.

The brand currently ranks third in catering to a smaller, higher-income market than both Nike and Under Armour and is number one and two in brand-ranking for athletic apparel…

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